DESTINATION: COZUMEL

Cozumel, the largest Mexican Caribbean island, is 10 miles wide and 28 miles long (16kms. x 45 kms.) where tourism (most specifically divers) dominates. Dive shops vary from PADI 5-Star facilities to single proprietor boats hawking snorkeling trips off the quay. Water sports in Cozumel are so good it is hard to make a wrong choice.

Accommodations run the gamut from luxury to basic; downtown hotels are by far the cheapest and most rustic. Archaeology plays a bit part in Cozumel tourism; the best preserved site is San Gervasio.

Cozumeleños for the most part are born and raised islanders, friendly and fun-loving. Life in Cozumel paces itself languidly, clock-free. Not even fishing or diving schedules are allowed to affect Cozumelenos' laid-back lifestyle. Most islanders live facing the mainland on Cozumel's west coast. Not by chance, this narrow strip welcomes all tourists from free independent travelers to cruise ship passengers with a rack of premium clubs, eateries and drinkeries.

Ferry boats make the 45-minute trek across the deep, stunningly blue bay from Playa del Carmen almost every hour. Travelers have a choice--rustic slow movers or hi-speed jet boats. The jet boats are better for the squeamish and hurried; the old broad-bellied wooden ferries for the romantic or those already on island time.